Russell Street BBQ - A Review

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I'd heard about Russell Street BBQ, at 325 NE Russell St. in Portland, for quite some time.   After watching Andrew Zimmerman devour major portions of Texas BBQ last week, I finally decided to take the trip to the far side of the river for a meaty lunch.

The restaurant is decorated with a southern "down home" flare, featuring wine & liquor bottles and scrap wood signs.  One sign warns, "Unattended children will be given a double espresso and a puppy."

For $21.00, one can order their Meat-A-Poloza featuring two meats and one style of ribs.  The three meats can be smothered in; classic BBQ sauce, spicy BBQ sauce, South Carolina style mustard sauce, or North Carolina style vinegar sauce; accompanied by two sides and cornbread or Texas toast.

Subject: Meat-a-Poloza at Russell St. BBQ with smoked sausage, marbled brisket, baby back ribs, beans, fries, and Texas toast |
Date: 03/17/16 | Photographers: James Kiester & Dani Cogswell |
This picture was taken by the author of this blog. |

I had my Meat-A-Poloza with smoked sausage, marbled beef brisket (You can order it lean, but why?), baby back ribs, beans, fries, and Texas toast.

The shoe string fries were coated with seasoning and were served with a "southern spiced" dipping sauce.  The fries themselves had a nice salty flavor, and the ketchup/mayonnaise based dip added a slight kick of heat.  While the fries were flavorful, they arrived to the table minimally warm, approaching cold.

The beans offered a sweet tangy flavor, which I enjoyed.  Yet, the amount of sauce with the beans almost qualified it as a bean soup, rather than a serving of beans.

However, one doesn't visit Russell Street for the sides.  People go there to exercise their inner carnivore.  To paraphrase Hamlet, "The meat's the thing."  These servings of beef and pork were seasoned perfectly, fork tender, and drenched in classic BBQ sauce.  Although the sauce was sweat and savory, the real flavor came from the fat, visible pink smoke layer, and spices of the meats.

To wash the meal down, I drank their $8.50 No-Po Lemonade consisting of Maker's Mark Bourbon, lemonade, and soda.  It was lemony and fizzy with enough of a hit of whiskey to make me glad I wasn't the one driving home.

Subject: Gooey Butter Cake | Date: 03/17/16 |
Photographers: James Kiester & Dani Cogswell |
This picture was taken by the author of this blog. |

I was accompanied by my friend, Dani.  Although we'd both eaten plenty, we decided to split a piece of their $5.00 dessert special.  Gooey butter cake is a cake is a flat and dense cake made with wheat cake flour, butter, sugar, and eggs, and dusted with powdered sugar, traditionally made in the American Midwest.  Our piece was topped with a strawberry drizzle and a dollop of whipped cream.  It was sweet, rich, and wonderful.

Even taking into account a few deficits with the side dishes, I still really enjoyed my meal.   I give Russell Street BBQ 8 out of 10 stars.